Just a short trip from Singapore, the coastal towns of Pontian and Kukup offer a laidback retreat filled with charm, delicious local eats, and fresh seafood. Perfect for a weekend getaway, this quiet corner of Johor lets you unwind by the sea, explore fishing villages, and savour the slower pace of life—without venturing too far.
April 2025. It had been a while since my last weekend trip. Work had been piling up (as you might have guessed from the recent silence here), and I found myself needing a breather—even a short one. I wasn’t looking for anything elaborate—just a place that didn’t demand much planning, but still offered a refreshing change of pace. Luckily, there are plenty of small towns not far from Singapore that fit the bill. This time, I headed to the laidback coastal town of Pontian, and the charming fishing village of Kukup. Here’s how it went.
Pontian and Kukup
Pontian, once a humble fishing settlement along Johor’s southwest coast, gradually grew into a small but lively town with a strong agricultural and maritime heritage. Traditionally known for its fishing industry and pineapple plantations, Pontian has evolved into a local hub that still retains much of its old-town charm. Its streets are lined with family-run shops, kopitiams, and the occasional fishmonger, offering a slower pace of life that contrasts starkly with the city just across the border.
Kukup, located just 20 minutes from Pontian, is a rare example of a traditional fishing village built entirely on stilts over the sea. With a history dating back over a century, the village was originally settled by fishermen of Chinese descent and remains deeply rooted in that heritage today. While tourism has introduced weekend crowds and seafood restaurants, Kukup’s heart still beats with the rhythms of the tides and the quiet routine of coastal living. It’s a place where time seems to slow down—perfect for a short escape.
In this post …
- 4 relaxing days in Pontian and Kukup
- Getting to Pontian from Singapore
- Getting to Kukup from Pontian
Day 1
We started our trip around noon on a Friday. I had planned to take the direct bus from Jurong Town Hall Bus Interchange to Pontian, but learned it no longer runs. Thankfully, the CW staff there were helpful—they told us we could still get to Pontian by public transport using the Second Link and Gelang Patah. That wasn’t the full picture, but it got us moving.
Crossing the Second Link
I’ve crossed the Causeway many times, but I couldn’t remember the last time I used the Second Link. It felt quieter, with fewer facilities and bus connections on both the Singapore and Malaysia sides. The Singapore customs were quick, and there were no long lines to transfer buses between checkpoints—much smoother than at the Causeway.
At the Malaysia side, the checkpoint buildings looked just like I remembered from years ago. Simple and old-school, nothing like the modern JB CIQ. It was a bit messy but still manageable—until a large tour group cut the queue, causing a short delay. After clearing customs, we found the bus 4G to Gelang Patah, which was a smooth ride.
Geylang Patah to Pontian
What we didn’t know was that the bus from Gelang Patah to Pontian only runs twice a day—the next one was at 8:00 PM. Not wanting to wait around for hours, we took a Grab ride instead. At RM50, it wasn’t cheap, but it saved us half a day.
We passed Pekan Nanas on the way and tried to spot the famous giant pineapple, but missed it. Still, the area looked interesting—worth a visit next time. The road continued west until we reached the coast and arrived in Pontian.
Staying in Pontian
Our accommodation was on the second floor of a shophouse, with restaurants below and the sea just a short walk away. The area was quiet, except during lunch and dinner when groups came by to eat. Our room had a large window facing the mudflats—a peaceful view you can’t get in Singapore. We even spotted a large bird walking around out there every day. We really regretted not bringing binoculars—it turned out to be quite a wildlife-filled trip.
The apartment was simple but clean and comfortable. It had everything we needed for a short stay.
First Food Stop: Hao Wanton Mee
Once we had settled in, we went out to explore before sunset. Like many Singaporeans, the only Pontian dish I knew to look out for was wanton mee. We found a well-rated stall nearby called Hao Wanton Mee (豪云吞面).
They offered black, white, and red sauces. We got the red and black variants. To our surprise, it didn’t taste like the Pontian Wanton Mee from the chains in Singapore. The noodles and flavours bear little resemblance to the popular chain in Singapore. Not sure which was more “authentic”, but we enjoyed this version anyway.
Pontian 3D Mural
After dinner, we walked north along the main road toward the river. Our first stop was the Pontian 3D Mural—a fun spot for a few quick photos, with no crowds or queues.
Pontian Mural Street
We crossed a partially built bridge over Sungai Pontian Kechil to the other side of town. The river houses were interesting to see. We took a short detour to check out Pontian Mural Street, which was empty but made for a nice, quiet stroll. There didn’t seem to be much to see so we didn’t stay long.
Other sights from the center of Pontian
Pontian Friday Night Market (Pasar Malam)
Our final stop for the day was the Friday pasar malam (night market) along Jalan Pantai, just a few minutes from the beach. There was a wide variety of local snacks and colourful street food, some of which I had never seen before—despite visiting many night markets in Malaysia over the years. This night market is only open on Fridays and Mondays.
We picked a few dishes and brought them to the waterfront to enjoy. We chose a spot closer to the carpark to avoid the crows near the trees. After our seaside meal, we walked around the nearby park, met more stray cats, then took a Grab ride back to our accommodation for the night.
Day 2
With a sea view like that from our apartment, it was hard to find a reason to get out of bed. We eventually stepped out close to noon and headed to a nearby restaurant (Restoran Thaj Delima) for roti canai. On holiday mode, I did something I’d never do in Singapore—requested for mutton curry with mutton. The curry probably cost more than the roti canai but it felt like the right thing to do on a holiday. The experience was fuss-free, which was fine to start a lovely Saturday morning.
The heat was intense, so we ducked into the McDonald’s next door for coffee and some much-needed air-con. The second floor had large windows and comfy seating—perfect for relaxing, reading, or planning the next stop.
Traditional Pastries at Kedai Biskut Chai Huat Heng
After cooling off, we explored a nearby block that seemed livelier. One highlight was Kedai Biskut Chai Huat Heng, a shop selling handmade traditional Chinese pastries like tau sar piah and pong piah. While similar pastries can be found in other Malaysian cities, these had a slightly different taste I couldn’t quite explain. There were also some I hadn’t seen in places like Penang.
I never leave such shops empty-handed, so I stocked up—limited only by what I thought I could finish in the week ahead.
A Quick Look at the Local Market
We took a quick stroll past the wet market next to Sungai Pontian Kechil. It was mostly closed by then, but still an interesting spot, with a mix of local produce stalls and small eateries nearby. Around the area, we passed the Pontian Lau Pasar, a modest-sized food centre that seemed to offer a good range of local dishes. It only opens at night, so we didn’t get to try anything—but it looked like a great place to sample more local fare.
Second Round of Wanton Mee: Kedai Mee Sin Kee
Our next stop was Kedai Mee Sin Kee, our second try at Pontian wanton mee. This one came with fishballs and optional otah (grilled fish cake). The taste and texture were different from the one we had the day before, but still not like the Pontian Wanton Mee we get in Singapore. It was enjoyable—something I’d happily eat again if I returned, though probably not worth making a trip just for the noodles alone.
Exploring Tambak Pontian and the Jetty
We continued our slow-paced day by walking past the bus terminal toward the seaside promenade and jetty at Tambak Pontian. It was peaceful, with benches looking out to sea. Some parts were a bit worn, but it added to the charm.
Out on the mudflat jetty, we found colourful fishing boats, some stuck in the mud, and loads of wildlife—mudskippers and crabs everywhere. It reminded me a little of Sungei Buloh back in Singapore, but in a more laidback setting. We spent quite a while just watching the mudskippers hopping about and the crabs scurrying from burrow to burrow.
At the end of the jetty, there were a few snack stalls and some damaged boats and structures. The jetty seemed to be the place locals came to relax and enjoy the sea, just as the night market the day before. As with most the Pontian we had seen so far, there weren’t many tourists visiting.
More Wildlife… From the Couch
We headed back to our apartment for a break. The big bird from the day before had returned, walking the mudflats as if on patrol. Once again, we regretted not bringing our binoculars—we hadn’t expected this trip to be so rich in wildlife.
Dinner by the Sea: Soccer Field Seafood Restaurant
For dinner, we walked a few minutes down the road to a seaside seafood restaurant—Soccer Field Seafood Restaurant. We had fried rice, barbecued stingray, and sambal kang kong. The atmosphere was lovely, but the prices were a little higher than we expected. The food was decent, but maybe our expectations were too high.
We later realised that we might have been better off trying the seafood restaurants opposite the fish market, where you can pick fresh seafood and have it cooked your way. That’s something we’d definitely try if we return.
Just as we finished dinner, the rain started to pour—perfect timing. The restaurant also accepted credit cards, which was a welcome surprise. With good forex rates on cards like YouTrip or Trust, paying by card has become more convenient (and traceable) than juggling piles of cash.
Day 3
Pontian’s Wet Markets
On our last full day in Pontian, we decided to pack in a little more activity. First stop: the Pontian New Market and Pasar Awam Pontian. We woke up a bit later than planned, so the buzz of the early morning rush had probably already quietened down.
The Pontian New Market, closer to the main road, was where fruits and vegetables—especially the locally grown pineapples—were sold. Just behind it, in the next building, was the Pasar Awam Pontian, the town’s famous fish market. We nearly missed it until the unmistakable stench of fresh seafood clued us in.
Inside, it was an open-air structure where stalls weren’t clearly demarcated, and seafood of all kinds was laid out in full display. Some fish were still gasping for air, extremely graphic and a raw reminder of just how fresh everything was. Locals and tourists arrived with pails and coolers to keep their haul fresh. Across the street, there are restaurants (such as this) that will cook your freshly purchased seafood on the spot.
As we just had seafood the night before, we opted instead for breakfast at a local gem.
Traditional Breakfast at Kheng Guan Hiong Coffeeshop
Just a short walk away was Kheng Guan Hiong Coffeeshop, a no-frills spot serving the classic local breakfast trio: toast, soft-boiled eggs, and kopi. Nothing fancy, just simple things done right—charcoal grilled kaya butter toast, perfectly runny eggs, and strong local coffee. The setting added to the charm: faded tiles, old-school fans, and the gentle clatter of plates in the background.
Heading to Kukup
Next on our list was Kukup, a coastal fishing village about 30 minutes away. Rather than walk to the bus station and wait, we took a Grab from the market for RM 21. It took a while to get a ride, but the countryside drive was smooth and scenic.
At Kukup Bus Terminal, we found a small food stall serving braised chicken rice. This caught our attention—it’s rare in Singapore, where chicken in chicken rice is typically poached, roasted, or fried. The braised chicken paired perfectly with fragrant rice, and it made for a satisfying pre-exploration lunch.
Exploring Kukup Laut
We headed toward the jetty and Kukup Laut, the village on the sea. The entrance wasn’t obvious—just a narrow lane on the left at the end of the road, starting with a rather unglamorous stagnant canal filled with trash. But beyond that, it opened up to a fascinating world.
Kukup Laut is built entirely on stilts over a mangrove swamp. Motorbikes zipped along the narrow wooden roads between homes. We stumbled upon a temple with a viewing tower, where a climb rewarded us with panoramic views: the entire floating village, kelongs, Kukup Island, and some partially collapsed buildings on shore.
Along the sea-facing edge were holiday chalets offering weekend getaways for large groups, complete with food and activities. These seemed ideal for family gatherings, though most appeared to require a minimum group size of 10.
Food stalls dotted the village lanes, but many looked like private homes, so we didn’t feel comfortable entering. Instead, we saved our snack craving for later.
Break Time at Twins Cafe Kukup
Just outside the village near the jetty was Twins Cafe Kukup. It stood out with its retro decor and modern signage. Prices appeared to be slightly higher, but the drinks and food were good (we had mee rebus and coffee), and the air-conditioned break was much appreciated after walking under the afternoon sun.
A Peek at Kampung Nelayan Air Masin
Across the road from Kukup Laut is another stilt village: Kampung Nelayan Air Masin. This one seemed quieter and more geared toward visitors, with more visible guesthouses and homestay options. Though we didn’t venture too deep, reviews online suggest it’s more welcoming for smaller groups than Kukup Laut’s chalets.
Bus Back to Pontian
We returned to the Kukup Bus Terminal and waited for our ride back. No bus came at the scheduled time, which was a little nerve-wracking, but eventually a minibus showed up with a route sign for Pontian–Kukup. Crisis averted.
Back in Pontian, we retreated to the apartment for a rest before our final dinner round.
Bak Kut Teh at 笨珍阿烽肉骨茶
For dinner, we headed back to the block we were exploring the day before. The neighbourhood was dark and mostly deserted by then, except for the few dinner joints still open in the area. Tucked away in a corner, Pontian Ah Fong Bak Kut Teh serves the Malaysian style herbal pork bone broth. Hearty and soothing, it was just the right kind of meal to wind down the day.
Night Visit to Pontian Lau Pasar
We revisited Pontian Lau Pasar, the hawker centre we saw on Day 2, and this time it was open and active. Most stalls were running and there were a decent number of diners, though the crowd was manageable. Sadly, we were too full to try anything else, and had to content ourselves with window-shopping local dishes.
Back at the apartment, we settled in with some snacks we got from the convenience store nearby and called it a day.
Day 4
Cendolboy
For our final morning in Pontian, we finally tried Cendolboy, the restaurant located just beneath our apartment. Despite often seeing it packed during lunch, it was pleasantly quiet earlier in the day. We tried their nasi padang, rojak, and of course, a bowl of their signature cendol. Everything was flavorful and comforting, and the warm hospitality of the staff made it a nice farewell meal. No wonder it’s a crowd favorite.
Heading Back: From Pontian to JB
After breakfast, we packed up and took the short walk to the Pontian Bus Terminal. Buses to Larkin Sentral depart roughly every 30 minutes, so there was barely any wait. Payment via Paywave made boarding hassle-free.
As we rode through familiar scenery, passing Pekan Nanas once more, we found ourselves wondering if we’d return someday—hopefully with cooler weather next time.
Pitstop at Paradigm Mall
Instead of heading straight to Larkin, we opted to hop off at Paradigm Mall. It was a Monday afternoon, so the mall was quiet and relaxed. Even at the popular Oriental Kopi, we were seated immediately, a nice change from the long queues we’d faced at their City Square Mall branch weeks earlier.
Paradigm had more than enough to keep us entertained: cafes, restaurants, a supermarket, a cat cafe, and even a Nitori. Great pit stop for some last-minute snacking and shopping before getting back to the hustle.
Back to JB Sentral
Another benefit of alighting at Paradigm Mall was the direct access to JB Sentral, skipping Larkin altogether. While signage at the bus stops was worn and a little confusing, Google Maps helped us figure out the correct route and bus number easily.
Back at JB CIQ, there were no queues at immigration thanks to the weekday lull, and crossing the causeway back into Singapore was smooth and uneventful—a welcome contrast to the usual weekend crowds.
Final Thoughts
This trip to Pontian was a reminder that even lesser-known towns can offer rich, local experiences, a relaxed pace, and surprisingly good food. From bustling wet markets and traditional breakfasts to mangrove stilt villages and serene bus rides, Pontian and Kukup made for a memorable detour from the usual Johor hotspots.
Looking forward to the next adventure across the causeway!
Getting There: Public Transport Routes from Singapore to Pontian
Option 1: Tuas Second Link → Gelang Patah → Pontian
Note: There used to be a direct bus from Jurong Town Hall to Pontian, but this appears to have been discontinued. Here’s the alternative:
- Take CW4S from Jurong Town Hall Bus Interchange (not Jurong East) → Tuas Checkpoint → CIQ Second Link (S$5).
- At CIQ Second Link, transfer to CW4G heading to Gelang Patah Bus Terminal.
- From Gelang Patah, either:
- Catch the CW4 to Pontian (operates only at 9:30 AM and 8:00 PM daily), or
- Take a Grab (~RM50, ~35 min ride).
Recommended only if you’re catching the CW4 timing or open to a Grab ride from Gelang Patah.
Option 2: Causeway → Larkin Sentral → Pontian (Most Reliable)
- Take any public bus from Singapore to JB CIQ via the Causeway (e.g. 160, 170, 950, CW1, CW2).
- After the customs, continue on 170 to Larkin Sentral.
- At Larkin, catch T50 bus to Pontian (RM6.20). Buses may run about every 30 minutes, so check timing in advance.
Option 3: Causeway → Paradigm Mall → Pontian (Efficient Alternative)
A smart choice for experienced travelers looking to skip Larkin and enjoy a mall stop.
- Cross via Causeway as in Option 2.
- From JB Sentral (bus terminal under railway station), take bus T30 or T32 to Paradigm Mall.
- At the opposite bus stop, take T50 to Pontian.
- Bus stop signage here is unclear; rely on Google Maps but verify in person.
Getting from Pontian to Kukup
Option A: By Bus (PN003)
- From Pontian Bus Terminal → Kukup: 7:20am, 11:00am, 2:30pm, 6:00pm
- From Kukup to Pontian: 8:00am, 12:00pm, 3:00pm, 6:30pm
- Fare: RM3 (cash only)
- Buses may not run strictly on schedule
Option B: By Grab
- Flexible and convenient. We paid RM21 for a 30-minute ride from Pontian’s market to Kukup.
- Can take longer to get a driver, especially outside town centers.
Other Useful Transport Tips
- Credit card payments accepted on most T- and CW- buses (tap on boarding).
- Google Maps is generally reliable for directions and bus routes but may have outdated info. Confirm key details on the ground when possible.
- Grab availability is decent in central Pontian but expect longer waits or no availability in more rural spots.
* Parts of this post were copyedited with the help of AI to improve clarity and flow. However, all experiences, opinions, and the overall voice remain fully my own.
